From the NY Times, this op-ed is by James E. McWilliams, author of “A Revolution in Eating: How the Quest for Food Shaped America”. I will highlight a few key points.
But is reducing food miles necessarily good for the environment? Researchers at Lincoln University in New Zealand, no doubt responding to Europe’s push for “food miles labeling,” recently published a study challenging the premise that more food miles automatically mean greater fossil fuel consumption. Other scientific studies have undertaken similar investigations. According to this peer-reviewed research, compelling evidence suggests that there is more — or less — to food miles than meets the eye.
It all depends on how you wield the carbon calculator. Instead of measuring a product’s carbon footprint through food miles alone, the Lincoln University scientists expanded their equations to include other energy-consuming aspects of production — what economists call “factor inputs and externalities” — like water use, harvesting techniques, fertilizer outlays, renewable energy applications, means of transportation (and the kind of fuel used), the amount of carbon dioxide absorbed during photosynthesis, disposal of packaging, storage procedures and dozens of other cultivation inputs.
Incorporating these measurements into their assessments, scientists reached surprising conclusions. Most notably, they found that lamb raised on New Zealand’s clover-choked pastures and shipped 11,000 miles by boat to Britain produced 1,520 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions per ton while British lamb produced 6,280 pounds of carbon dioxide per ton, in part because poorer British pastures force farmers to use feed. In other words, it is four times more energy-efficient for Londoners to buy lamb imported from the other side of the world than to buy it from a producer in their backyard. Similar figures were found for dairy products and fruit.
...
“Eat local” advocates — a passionate cohort of which I am one — are bound to interpret these findings as a threat. We shouldn’t. Not only do life cycle analyses offer genuine opportunities for environmentally efficient food production, but they also address several problems inherent in the eat-local philosophy.
Consider the most conspicuous ones: it is impossible for most of the world to feed itself a diverse and healthy diet through exclusively local food production — food will always have to travel; asking people to move to more fertile regions is sensible but alienating and unrealistic; consumers living in developed nations will, for better or worse, always demand choices beyond what the season has to offer.
Given these problems, wouldn’t it make more sense to stop obsessing over food miles and work to strengthen comparative geographical advantages? And what if we did this while streamlining transportation services according to fuel-efficient standards? Shouldn’t we create development incentives for regional nodes of food production that can provide sustainable produce for the less sustainable parts of the nation and the world as a whole? Might it be more logical to conceptualize a hub-and-spoke system of food production and distribution, with the hubs in a food system’s naturally fertile hot spots and the spokes, which travel through the arid zones, connecting them while using hybrid engines and alternative sources of energy?
Please do read the whole thing. I would just offer that it is probably unnecessary to conceptualize a hub-and-spoke system as if that is something that planners need to create. We do a pretty good job of that with the various distribution networks used by processors and supermarkets. Aside from that, McWilliams seems to be pretty much in agreement with the way I view the situation.

Agriculture probably presents the best case of Ricardian Comparative Advantage possible. Our lamb should come from New Zealand and our sugar from Haiti, yet those barriers always seem to be the last ones to fall. Maybe we can just relable the local manufacturing plant the 'family factory' and Willie Nelson will put on a Fact-Aid concert to save those jobs.
I am sympathetic towards farmers, my Mom's family sustained and grew an Indiana farm from around 1820 to 1970. And I am more than supportive of regional cropping, I pay a premium for Oregon cheese because it just tastes better. I just suspect that in least this particular industry we could do worse than just letting Ricardian CA rip.
Agreed. And exploiting Ricardian comparative advantage (inclusive of transportation costs) does not necessarily lead to a bigger carbon footprint. If a carbon tax leads to more efficient transportation there will only be small changes around the margins rather than large scale shifts. Oregon cheese will likely still command a premium.